Crochet cotton rose scrubbie

Ravelry Pattern Page for Flower face cleansing pads

Sheregal Project page on Ravelry

Designers direct link to pattern site

This is an addition to my bath set bag. One will be themed roses the other sea shells. Made with worsted weight crochet cotton my scrubby was made to pattern. It measures 3 1/2" across. I used an H hook. The 'petals' make it nubby enough to get the job done without being scratchy. The pattern is a magic circle and 4 rounds! That's it. Easy, pretty, and useful. It doesn't get much better. Petals to picots is a great site and the designer has quite a few very inventive original patterns.

Crochet Ditty Bag

Ravelry Pattern Page for Dots Little Ditty Bag

Sheregal Project page on Ravelry

Designers direct link to pattern site

The bag is rather small. It's 6 1/2" across when laid flat. 6" high and the handle extends 4 1/2" (9" loop) For the handle I did 35 foundation sc. It made it thicker and a touch longer. My handle is 3/4" wide. For the slot I skipped 3 st instead of 2 and chained 6 not 4. I used an H hook and left over variegated yarn I would guess is worsted weight. I've been working on improving the presentation of my handmade items and this will serve as the gift bag for the bath sets I plan to make for Christmas. I have small recycled fruit containers I'm going to use when I make homemade sugar scrub to include with the sets. It will fit perfectly.

Cloudburst Shawl

 Ravelry Pattern Page for Cloudburst Shawl

Sheregal Project page on Ravelry

The is a simple shawl and looks nice in the yarn I couldn't resist buying. Redheart super saver in Wildflower. I only purchased one skein because I had no project in mind at the time. I used almost the entire skein and if I'd placed tassels at every opportunity I may not have had enough. I substituted a boarder row of blue and green as it was to extend the yarn. I could have finished the tassels with the blue and green as well but liked it as is. Oh! The pattern calls for 4 or maybe 5 dc in the shell, I only used 3. It was to conserve yarn and I don't see a major difference. Possibly a bit lacier? It didn't throw the pattern off and I got away with one skein , 236 yards + some scraps. It's really very pretty. I may take the tiny bit left and make a cuff to hold the ends together around the neck. Possibly add a ...flower?

 


  

Yorkville Cowl - Chenille Novelty Yarn

Yorkville Cowl - Ravelry Pattern Page   Kriskrafter - Direct link to pattern on crafters site

Sheregal - My projects page on Ravelry

I love this pattern. Its an easy repetition to learn and works up pretty quickly. My first cowl was made with the clearance yarn I got at ACMoore. The yarn is made by Nicole and is called Basic II (chenille in tan and brown) One of those companies bought the other and there were plenty of posts out there on problems resulting from lack of customer service and product availability for a bit. I like ACMoore so I hope they worked that out. I paid 1$ for a 65yard skein. I since claimed the rest of what was on the clearance table in this color in hopes of completing another set or two.

 The lighting is strange in this pic but it shows the stitch texture. The next pic is better in terms of seeing the yarn color. My original concern with this yarn was it showed very little in terms of texture. You'll see a major difference in the regular worsted weight pieces. This was made with an I hook btw.

 

I liked the color blend of the original photos and made more cowls. They were made with scraps of worsted weight yarn. Most likely it was all redheart.

 

The dark rainbow colors really make this pop.
Yellow, orange, red, dark blue, purple, and green. This was made with a H hook and an I for the sc in backloops in the top and bottom of upper cuff. (The pattern says to not make these stitches too tight. To be sure I went up a hook for these rows) The cowl is 9" wide and 9" from tip to neck line.

This was made from left over yarn from some infant projects and are pastel versions of the rainbow. I used a variegated yarn and pulled solid colors from there. Mint, white, variegated, peach, baby pink, lilac, baby blue. This cowl was made with a J hook with those exception rows with a K. It is 10" wide and 9 1/2 " from tip to top. Ideally it would fit those of us with an extra chin. For that purpose in the future I would drop the whole top band and just add an edging after the triangular post section to shorten the neck. It is plenty wide enough and the stitch pattern has a lot of stretch to it so be careful not to make it too wide. I could wear the other two versions. I just don't like anything snug around my neck.

I'd like to try a 2 strand together version. And switch one strand color before the other so there is more color blend with maybe 3 to 4 complimentary colors. I'd prefer a lighter weight yarn for that but I suppose one could try a smaller hook size.

Busy September - experimental crochet soap dish

I scrapped the canvas transfer project. I was hitting 20$+ in materials alone before I even had a clue if I could get it to work and it was meant as a tiny side gift. So back to the store it went. I re-spent the money on yarn. I've been on a crazy crochet binge since. Hence the barrage of posts. One of my projects is bath set for teachers. To go with that I was experimenting on making a soap rest out of yarn and plarn. (sorry no pics of plarn version)

 crochet into a circle using front post dc or trc and a sc or hdc into the row below.

the sc between into the fl of the row below leaves a ridge on the back that sets the piece up off the surface a bit for air to past through.

This was frogged to use the yarn but if I get around to completing a design I will edit this post with the pattern.

Crochet Christmas - Starburst 'Hotpad' Pattern

 

I found this on While browsing a blog by Sew ritzy~titzy. I followed her link to Ravelry and the page for the Starburst Hotpad says its no longer available. But there is a link to an archive for CrochetMemories with the written pattern. Crochet Geek has a video for Crochet Orig
ami Motif that could be helpful as its assembly is a touch confusing at first. Basically you make five 2 round pieces and they combine to make the above starburst. IMO I wouldn't set a hot pot on top of this. The center is bulky. And its final measurement is 6 1/4" across. Not very big. It does however make an interesting Christmas...something. Center Piece base? tree topper? I'll get back to you. It was interesting to make. Crochet Geek made hers all one color so I'd like to leave a few hints for those experimenting with color.

Its a bit like the center of a granny square. The red is first with the white and green dcs around red chains. With the different colors my construction was a bit different. I crochet the white on two corners and joined the centers, then came down the other side and added the green on the opposite corners.

If I were to make this again, (and I almost frogged mine because of it) I'd make sure the inside petals, the white in this case, would be crochet on the wrong side of work. They flip over. I made sure both edgings were done on the right side and I think it would have looked better flipped. Shrug. Was it that noticeable? No. Did it still bug me? Yup. If this had been a gift or part of an assembled gift I would have changed it because the perfectionist in me wouldn't have allowed otherwise. Being the experiment it was I left it as is. And it really isn't a huge thing. So red center, right side up, green outer edges right side up, white center 'petals' crochet from wrong side.
I had a dk red sparkly yarn that I sc through the front loop on the wrong side of the white. I then made reverse sc along the green edge. At each white petal tip I ran the revsc through the red sc and the green center sc.

The tail from the white joined the first and last motif. Then I ran it to the center and stitches through the back of the sc to pull center together. I used the tail of the red trim to close the gap of the last petal neatly. It was easy and quick and I'm thinking of making it the topper to the granny square Christmas tree wall hanging I wanna make. It was inspired by the same blog.

Half size simple stocking - Old Lion Brand pattern

I believe I first saw this pattern in a book that featured afghans and Vanna White. It was a decent pattern book. The stocking was much larger then I need in its original design and I made my own half size version. Since the pattern I'm linking too is not the exact same I can't same what the size relation is. Christmas Tree Christmas Stocking is the basic stocking with a tree embellishment. Lion Brand actually lists the same basic pattern under several variations. (cjif-stocking) The Ravelry link features the tree embellishment. Both are sign in sites.

I'm going to post my original alterations written in complete pattern form below. I list #'s of rows and measurements. I think it's more important to go by measurement for this type of project. Especially if your combining different stitches as I did in my example. Hook size and gauge as long as consistent don't matter much if you watch the actual lengths. You want to maintain proportions for the leg width, heel, toe, and length of foot. Though the length of the leg could vary greatly. Think ankle sock to thigh high stocking. In the end it only truly matters that it looks right to you.

 The example picture uses various stitches in the leg of the stocking.
r1. sc, r2. dc, r3. alternating puff st, *2sc, yo insert hook yo, repeat 3x, then yo and pull through all loops on hook*, repeat across, r4. Setting the ripple pattern from zigzag stocking of previous post, r5. reverse of above row. r6. alternating puff stitch. NOTE: I had to push my puffs around to compensate for working on the wrong side of work. I suggest setting your pattern to have an odd number of rows between puff stitches so their worked on the same side. Luckily mine were simple enough that it was easy to adjust. r7. de, r8. sc, r9. dc, heel, after heel was a row of dc and then sc. Then 2 rows of sc in white. The cuff was 3 rows of sc, the loop is 15 chains made on the second row

The pictured stocking measures 4 1/2" wide at top. The leg in 4" long, the foot 2". The entire length is 8" with the cuff being just a hair under an inch.

I've found one of the original stockings I made. This bugger measures 19' from toe to the picot edging. The leg is 12 1/8" , the foot 4" and its 8" wide.

It's huge!

The green area is Tunisian crochet. I obviously intended to embroider something in cross-stitch. (Would have been a lot easier to do before sewing up the side and could be why this was in the stash box.)

The pattern is written in ALL sc stitches. You can change that up in anyway you like to create many variation as pictured in the above example. I find this size perfect for Christmas cookies. Enjoy!

Half Size Stocking

 

I hook

 
Leg

Ch 30,

For finished looking top edge crochet row 1 in 'humps'

Stitching in 'Humps'
Turn your beginning chain over. Leaving the two regular loops intact, insert hook into center 'hump'
Disregard multiple loops on hook its the best graphic I could find to show the reverse side of chain.


 

row 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in ea across; 29 sc

row 2 ch 1, turn, sc in first sc and in ea across; 29 sc

repeat row 2 until piece measures approximately 3 to 4”

15 - 20 rows

Heel

row 1 (rs) sk  23 sc, join b in next sc with sl st, ch 1, sc in same sc and in next 5 sc, fold piece in half so ends meet, sc in first 7 sc [joining made] 13 sc

row 2 ch 1, turn, sc in first 9 sc, leaving rem 4 unworked

row 3 ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sc, leave rem 4 unworked

row 4 ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sc , sc in next sc on row 2; 6 sc

row 5 ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sc , sc in next sc on row 3; 7 sc

row 6 ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sc from previous row; you will pick up one st on each pass until you reach 13.
 

rows 7 -11 rep row 6 until you have no remaining unworked stitches, fasten off.

 

Foot

Row 1 (rs) sk first 6 sc on row 11 of heel, join MC to next sc with sl st, ch 1, sc in same sc and in remaining 6 sc of heel, sk first sc on last row of leg, sc in across till last st before heel (14sc), sk last sc on leg, sc in first sc and remaining 5 sc of heel; 27 sc

Row 2 ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sc , sc2tog(insert hook in next sc yo and pull up lp.) Twice, yo and pull through all lps on hook [dec made] , sc in next 12 sc, dec, sc in last 7 sc; 25

Row 3 ch 1, turn, sc in first sc and in ea sc across ; 25

          Repeat row 3 until foot measures approx. 1 7/8” from Heel, changing to B in last sc of last row.
 

8 rows
 

Toe

Row 1 with B ch 1, turn, sc in first 12 sc, dec, sc in last 12 sc; 24 sc

Row 2 ch 1, turn, dec in first 2 sc , sc in next 8 sc, dec in next 2sc, leave rem unworked ; 10 sc

Row 3 – 5 ch 1, turn, dec in next 2 sc, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, dec in last 2 sc, fasten off

Row 6 join B with sl st, ch 1, dec in first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, dec in last 2 sc

Row 7 – 9 rep rows 3-5 once.

          Toe Stitch breakdown

24        =      12        +      12

 

                  2-8-2           2-8-2

                  2-6-2            2-6-2

                  2-4-2            2-4-2

                  2-2-2            2-2-2

 

Cuff

Wing it!

You could work the beginning chain in the 'humps' to leave a nice chain as a plain edging or substitute almost any edging you like. A cuff could be 2 strands held together, novelty yarn, or any bulky yarn to give it fluff and/or texture. If using eyelash or fur you should consider combining it with a matching heavier strand of yarn. Even a scrap of fabric could top of your crochet creation.



 

ZIgzag stocking - half size, no sew on heel

I also bought red yarn on my shopping trip. I figured I'd at least make stockings and knew I was short on red. My normal stocking is a sc rectangle folded , then you add heal and foot and toe. Then stitch up the bottom and side. Simple & pretty. I tend to decorate with a tapestry design in the main section, cross-stitch over the sc or embellishments sewn on. I've shied away from more then large color changes because I didn't like the ideal of that seam needing bits of each color. I saw a color change design I really like on a YouTube video demonstration of a redheart free pattern.

 Zigzag Stocking, Designed by Linda Cyr. I love the ripples. The 2 piece sew on heel, not so much. I've altered the pattern significantly but still like to give credit for the inspiration. Sometimes I worry so much about people trying to sue me for blogging my crochet creations I hate to give links and names. Its hard to be even an admirer of some work these days. The original pattern was free so I hope there is nothing to worry over this time. I altered the overall size and made the heel part of the body of the stocking. My stocking finishes at 10" from top to toe with a 1 1/8" top edging. It's 5 1/2 " wide. **Note: I never thought to just alter the color of the stitches under the sewn on heel. pfft. It may work better then my attempt. I'll let you know if I get around to trying it. **

The original version call for 61 ch to begin. Both versions are worked top down. sc in the 12 ch from hook to leave unworked stitches for loop. As I planned to add a cuff that's minus 10 sts for loop and 1 turning chain, which matches the 50 stitches from row 1. (if you just wanted to delete loop you'd start with ch 51) The pattern breaks down to 7 st in the repeat and 1 ending stitch so to shorten the width I decided to remove one pattern. To make it even (one pattern from front and back) that's 14 st. 50-14=36 (+1 turning ch). My opening is ch 37, sc in second ch from hook. You could break it to a half pattern as well but that would take altering the beginning and ending stitches and you'd have to make those calculations yourself. When sc for the first row I turned the chain over and made stitches into the bump. I wasn't sure at the time if I'd be adding a cuff and this makes a nice clean edge. Your rows are broken down into beginning/repeat pattern/ending stitches. For whatever size you take whole patterns out of (7st) the basic directions still hold true.

skip 2st = slst in each of next 2 st; sc2 = 2sc in next st; 3sc = sc in each of next 3 st;

(?)= st made in same st; *?* = repeated pattern

Setting the ripple:

(ch up 3, tr, dc),hdc,sc,skip 2st,sc,hdc /*(dc,tr,dc),hdc,sc,skip 2st,sc,hdc*/ (dc,tr)

beginning                                                  repeat pattern                                  end

After establishing the ripple the filler rows are the same. Two per color

ch1,(sc2), 3sc,skip 2st,3sc/*(sc,ch1,sc)in ch1 space, 3sc,skip 2st,3sc*/ (2sc)

beg                                                  rep pattern                                        end

A-Red, B-Green, C-White, D-Gold

Color progression: A,B,C,D,A,B,C (begins heel), A(red heel), Continue with C, D,A, B (toe)

(my cuff was done in gold, a bulky redheart, clouds?)

Heal: Beginning with change to C-white

1. repeat filler row once, turn

2. ch1,(sc2)3sc,skip 2st,3sc,(sc,ch1,sc) in ch1 space, turn

3. ch1, sc,(sc,ch1,sc)in ch1 space, 3sc,skip 2st,3sc,(sc2), turn

4. (sc2), 3sc,skip 2st,3sc,(sc,ch1,sc)in ch1 space, sc [cont. pattern across unworked st in row1],turn

You started rows on the left side and are now working on the right side with 2 rows of white completed here after last turn.

5. (sc2),3sc,skip 2st,3sc,(sc,ch1,sc) in ch1 space, turn

6. sc,(sc,ch1,sc) in ch 1 space, 3sc,skip 2st,3sc,(sc2), FO white.

Join A-Red in first st of row

7. (ch up 3,dc),2dc,dccluster4tog [*yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops on hook* repeat 3 more times, 5 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 5], 2dc,(dc,ch1,dc)in ch1 space, 2dc, turn

8. ch1,3sc,(sc,ch1,sc) in ch1 space,2sc,skip st,3sc,(sc2)in top of ch3, turn

9. (ch3,dc), 2dc,dccluster4tog,2dc,(dc,ch1dc)in ch1 space, turn

10. ch1,sc,(sc,ch1,sc)in ch1 space,3sc,skip st,3sc,(sc2), turn

11. ch1,(sc2),3sc, skip 2st,3sc,(sc,ch1,sc) in ch1 space, sc,[2sc in unworked A-Red st of row 7], [dc,slst in C-White row] FO

Turn work and join A-Red to other side repeat rows 7 - 11

Join C-White and repeat filler row twice, pattern should re-establish as you work across A-Red and C-White from one side completely to the other. Add additional filler rows of D,A, & B

Toe:

1. ch1,4sc,skip 2st,3sc/*sc in ch1 space,3sc,skip 2st,3sc*/sc, turn

2. ch1,3sc/*skip 2st,5sc*/[last 5] skip 2st,3sc, turn

3. ch1,2sc/*skip 2st,3sc*/[last 4] skip 2st,2sc

4. ch1,sc/*skip 2st,sc*/ FO leaving a tail to sew toe &/or entire foot and leg of stocking.

I sewed up the side with green. It did show through. It's unavoidable unless you sew each color change separately. Hey it's a sock. It looks fine. (That's a big concession coming from me) I used the semi-bulky gold yarn to make a cuff. The gold is sleeker then the white which looks more like a fur cuff. I liked the look and the little flair the cuff has from using the same hook size with thicker yarn. Normally I would sc or dc into the bar outside the st to make it look like the material was actually cuffed. For this piece I went the other way because of that beautiful edge and sc in the back loops of the starting ch. 3rows of sc, then ch15 for hanging loop, and slst into next st, then another row of sc around. FO and hide tail. I crochet over the tails of the color changes as I went and the only other tails I had was one red strand from heel. The starting end and green join strands were crochet under the gold cuff. In all this worked up easily and fast. Did I mention I used an I hook and all worsted weight yarn? I don't think I've posted pics of the stocking I usually make but I definitely will soon. Several of these are going to teachers with cookies if nothing else and one for my sons bf (that's best friend, really people he's 9)  I still hope to pick out a pattern and acquire yarn for blankets from my son's therapists. I've got 4 months so maybe I'll get it done. :)

Unfinished piece with gathered tow



Back Seam - Green shows through, tiny bit, mostly white and gold

Clouds yarn by Redheart, semi-bulky, same hook size sc in back loops
 

P.S. I've been adding my projects to my Ravelry page if there is a noted pattern. You can check there to see alternate pattern locations, download the pdf when available or just look at others color choices and alterations. My name there is Sheregal!

Simple crochet scarf and hat - Novelty yarn

So I went to the craft store and spent 4 hours looking through everything. I purchased supplies for the canvas tranfer project, odds n ends to finish up my celtic bag, and a few sale skiens of yarn. I had imagined myself finding a great deal on yarn to make atleast one blanket/lapghan for my sons teachers for christmas. I browsed through hopeful patterns but didn't want to settle on something before getting the yarn. My mistake. It would have been better to choose 1 or 2 patterns and have an ideal what yarn I was looking for. There was of course no fantastic deal. But a decent sale. Problem was I had no ideal what I wanted or how much yarn I'd need. Everything looked good. I've been drawn to varigated yarn but some patterns just wont work with it. In the end I did find a deal on a brand of yarn I didn't recognise. I got 5 65yd balls at $1 each and have made a scarf and hat set. One teacher down. Two to go, and a student teacher, and the school phycologist . And the therapist and the other pycologist. (well maybe not him)

So here is my Hat and scarf set. The yarn is a 'novilty' yarn of sorts. There is a worsted weight strand in a natural color thats a bit... fluffy. And a dk weight 3 ply in dark brown wrapped around the other. The yarn is just this side of bulky and shows no stitch texture. (well the ribbed stitch shows ok) So I found a simple patterns on ravelry for the scarf. And the hat is a rib stitch with one end gathered and the other folded up for a brim. I used a N (10mm) hook . The yarn is super soft and the set turned out well. I probly have enough for a second hat. I thought of making wrist warmers but I don't think even the simple design would look right in this yarn. There was a second the softness had me thinking I could use this myself. But I have hats and scarfs I never use so into the gift pile it goes.